Travels to San Miguel de Allende

A “Magical” Paradise
By: Sandi "D"

A familiar place getting some recent media attention is San Miguel de Allende, a historical City in the State of Guanajuato, Mexico. It’s a small town in the mountains sitting at an altitude of 6400 feet and whenever the name is mentioned everyone seems to have a relative, neighbor, friend, or friend of a friend, who has vacationed or perhaps even lives full time in this quaint little City. Founded in 1542 by a Spanish Franciscan missionary, Fray Juan de San Miguel, it is referred to by many as a ‘magical place.’

It was in the 18th Century that the heroes of the independence movement were born. Ignacio de Allende y Unzaga, a revolutionary, born on January 21, 1769, joined forces with Father Don Miguel Hidalgo leading the famous Cry of Independence speech in September 1810 and the resulting insurgency. But Spain was too strong and the patriots were defeated. Both Hidalgo and Allende, along with others, were executed, their heads hung in cages outside a Guanajuato granary. On March 8, 1826, in recognition of Allende’s heroism, the state government changed the name of the town to San Miguel de Allende.

In 1926 SMA was declared a National Monument, preserving the historical aspects of the town which is why the town is free of traffic lights today. With the opening of the Instituto Allende Art School in the late 1930’s, the foreign population began to grow and today retired Americans and Canadians make up much of the expat community, numbering between 2000-4000, depending upon season.

This was technically my first stay in the historical Mexican town. I say “technically” because it was almost ten years ago that a friend moved to San Miguel from New York full time and we visited. It was a short visit but I never forgot the charm of the area, keeping the thought I would return. And so it was, the opportunity arose and we spent the month of February learning about and participating in the magic.

San Miguel is a physical daily exercise in itself with its hilly cobble-stoned streets, narrow sidewalks and winding side streets. Every turn is a discovery of interesting little shops, boutiques, jewelers and artisans¸ art galleries and restaurants. The streets are very clean as each morning shop-keepers sweep and wash the stone pavements. It is rare to see a piece of paper strewn on the streets. However, there is major street work going on throughout San Miguel as streets are being ripped open to put power lines underground. The City is undergoing modernization all the time. Crossing the street becomes an artistic endeavor as traffic usually comes to a halt to allow pedestrians the right of way. All the near traffic misses as automobiles pull up to corners, sometimes passing each other with only inches to spare, quickens the heartbeat. Don’t forget, there are no traffic lights or stop signs in SMA!
Walking down and around the winding streets, we wondered what could be behind some of the large old wooden Hacienda doors. We were afforded the opportunity to find out on several occasions and each time our surprise was broadened by the spectacular gardens, fountains and beautiful homes within; many with three living levels, high 14 foot ceilings, skylights and roof top gardens. True architectural wonders.

The town is alive with the creativity of artists, writers, theatre people and musicians and includes a large population of Gringo public service groups who work tirelessly to benefit many Mexican charities. The weekly “Bible,” newspaper Atencion (written in Spanish and English), lists every conceivable activity and happening. One would need an excessive number of hours or a clone in order to participate in everything. The central focus of all cultural activities is the Biblioteca, where concerts, movies, lectures and theatre abound and where the intelligencia usually hang out engaged in serious discussions on all topics.

Depending on one’s lifestyle, choices are innumerable when it comes to accommodations: hotels, B &B’s, apartments, villas, condos, and private homes….all available for rent. To be in the heart of it all, one would probably prefer the area known as “El Centro” where most everything is within walking distance. And if it’s not, then a taxi ride can be had for 25 pesos (a little more than $2.00) to any location within the main city of San Miguel. We were quite content in our B & B Villa Mirasol Hotel on Pila Seca, recommended by a friend, well run with a courteous staff, good breakfasts, conveniently located a short 3 block walk to the Jardin, the town square, around which there are many restaurants, stores and street hawkers. At the Jardin in the Plaza Principal stands the beautiful 18th Century Parroquia (Church), constructed of rose colored quarry stone. The Church bells ring each morning beginning at 6:30 a.m. and if per chance you didn’t hear them, a repeat performance follows at 7:00 a.m. and during the evenings as well.

The Jardin is the place where everyone congregates (especially on weekends) to exchange information about who’s doing what, where and when and with who and what’s new and happening. It’s also a place to sit during the day to read, talk and people watch. It’s Peyton Place at its best, Mexican style! On any weekend evening there are three or four different kinds of musical groups playing and singing, people dancing in the streets, lovers holding hands and swaying to the romantic sounds, especially of the Mariachi. Valentine’s Day was celebrated with a variety of Mariachi Bands playing in front of the Parroquia in the Jardin to crowds of families.

Did you say you’re looking for a variety of activities? How about brushing up on your Spanish at one of the many Spanish schools. Perhaps you’re a Bridge player or would like to be…try the San Miguel Bridge Club (http://www.smabridge.com/) located at the Hotel Real d’Minas. Many evenings can be spent attending gallery art show openings that include cocktails and more. It’s also a great way to meet people.

Never having taken an art lesson, I knew this was my opportunity. Classes in Expressionist Life Drawing in Charcoal seemed a good place to begin. I had a ball and even discovered there’s a little talent submerged (the operative word being little). My teacher was artist, Henry Vermillion, who has a gallery in town and is also an actor, director and set designer. The norm in SMA is the wearing of multi-creative hats! There are numerous art classes and teachers in every medium – painting, drawing, sculpture, ceramics, jewelry making. The Instituto Allende is a popular place for art and Spanish lessons, along with monthly Art Fairs. Lest I forget, there are cooking schools, yoga classes, zumba classes…you name it and it probably is happening in San Miguel. Even Arthur Murray has opened a studio with classes in Latin and Ballroom instruction! By the time I was finished going from class to class, day to day, vacation time was nearly over!

Let’s talk about the plethora of restaurants that fill the tiny streets. Aside from the obvious Mexican cuisine, ethnic foods prevail at every turn featuring menus sprinkled with Mexican flavorings. Some of the sought after Italian restaurants include MiVida, Vivoli, Socialitte (try to have Jorge wait on you as he’s extremely friendly), Toscana and more. An extremely popular and well priced restaurant is Hecho en Mexico where an international menu of well prepared foods prevails. A sweet little luncheon place run by an Argentinean is El Tomato billed as a natural food cocina. Many of the restaurants feature outdoor dining in magical gardens of flowers, plants and fountains while the sounds of guitar or piano and romantic songs in Espanol and English enhance the flavors.

Bugambilia is a long time authentic Mexican dining experience where Chile Rellenos are the specialty. Good jazz and food can be found at Tio Lucas where owner Max meets and greets his guests. It’s the place for carne and the sounds of Ken Bassman, Robert Kaplan and occasionally Doc Severinsen as well. Berlin is a newcomer with an international menu and a busy bar scene. Upscale second floor restaurant, with elevator, is the glamorous Jackie’s, all in white with outdoor dining overlooking the City. It’s a bit on the pricey side for San Miguel, but a nice special occasion evening. Woolie’s Kaban has good food, atmosphere and on weekends is a hot spot for music and dancing. It goes without saying, that, yes, there is a Starbucks!

Food is plentiful and delicious at Planta Baja where manager Juan is always smiling and attentive to customer needs. It is also home to three Brits called “The Literary Cabaret” who, for 16 years, have performed their brand of satirical humor of clever skits, poetry and songs featuring anything from Shakespeare to naughty Noel Coward and rock n’ roll. They write their own shows which change regularly. The group includes Rick Davey (who also plays guitar), Marilyn Bullivant and Reesha Browning.

St. Paul’s Church is a place for concert music with its ProMusica Series, bringing wonderful classical concerts to San Miguel. The Baroque Festival was about to begin just as we were leaving and fills many churches and other spaces with music for several days. There is also opera¸ folk and flamenco.

Curious to see theatre in SMA, we got tickets to “My Old Lady” a comedy/drama by Israel Horovitz presented at the Teatro Santa Ana at the Biblioteca. It had been getting good reviews both in print and word of mouth. It was directed by Lola Smith, a professional actress and an active member of the SMA theatre community. This show was delightfully performed by Michael Gottlieb, Siobhan Bryne and Bea Aaronson and provided many laughs along with the pathos it deserved. The Play Readers are part of the theatre scene that performs at St. Paul’s Church where rotating directors choose a play or plays that are read on book by a cast of actors, accessorized with some scenery and costuming. The evening I attended included short works by playwrights Ethan Coen from ”Almost An Evening” and Will Eno, “Enter the Spokeswoman Sideways” and others. Some were funny, and I do mean laugh out loud ha-ha, others clever and somewhat silly, but all provided a good evening’s entertainment. Next up is Mamet’s “Speed the Plow” directed by none other than my art teacher and actor, Henry Vermilliion!

A highlight evening was spent at the Biblioteca watching an award winning documentary “In a Dream.” Although a “Sold Out” sign was posted, I started speaking with a woman who, as it turned out, was the lady who curates this series called “Reel Docs.” Her name is Caren Cross and with partner Jennifer Posner, have brought some remarkable documentaries to the Biblioteca. Caren advised waiting until the last minute to see if seats would become available. Luckily, more chairs were added and we sat in the first row which made the film even more engaging. The story is about mosaic artist Isaiah Zagar and his wife Julia, from Philadelphia. In the bohemian neighborhood of South Philly, 50,000 square feet of concrete have been covered with tile and mirrors, all created by Zagar who shares his torture, torment and unusual lifestyle and family with audiences around the world. Having allowed his younger son to film their day to day existence, Isaiah and Julia’s love story and subsequent betrayals, including an older son’s drug problems, are all captured and documented for the thousands who have viewed this remarkable film. The story can cause great discomfort at times, but we all know that’s what makes great art. The realities were even clearer when Isaiah and Julia came on stage post showing, submitting themselves to audience questions and participating in a cocktail reception afterwards. It is a not-to-be missed film should one have the opportunity.

Speaking of films, there is a place called The Market Café where, approximately 15 years ago, a Frenchman named Daniel cleverly started showing films of all sorts; foreign and classics. The small room seats around 22 people who watch film DVDs on a large screen in comfortable seating and for the price of 60 pesos also receive a drink of choice (including wine, beer and margaritas) and a bag of popcorn. What a deal!

Continuing excitement seemed to fill most of February as the San Miguel Writer’s Conference, scheduled for five days at the Hotel Real de Minas, began on February 19th featuring keynote speaker and respected writer Barbara Kingsolver. I had ordered tickets prior and was part of the packed ballroom of 800 to hear her gentle voice explain how she found her way into writing her latest bestseller “The Lacuna.” An auction preceded her speech intended to raise funds for this organization to which many local artists and shopkeepers donated their talents.

Having never experienced a bull fight, the opportunity presented a couple of days before our scheduled departure. We already had tickets to a benefit performance for Haiti, but decided to make it a donation and forego the concert for a chance to see a famous Portugal rejoneadore (a bullfighter on horseback) namely, Pablo Hermosa de Mendoza, renowned for his skill, grace, genius and beautiful horses. Rejoneo means using a lance and is the oldest form of bullfighting and was an activity for the nobility - the Arabs in North Africa and later the Moorish in Spain. Matadors, using capes and swords, became prominent in the early 19th century.

We made our way to the small ring, arriving on the early side to secure seats as close as we could get. Our general admission tickets entitled us to seats above the first four rows, all seats being on concrete slabs. We wound up in the 5th row and watched as the ring filled and excitement mounted. The Corrida de Toros is a happening as rejoneadores appear perhaps every three years in San Miguel. Cigarette and cigar smoke filled the air, along with cries of hawkers selling chips and hot sauce, foods of all kinds, beer, tequila, margaritas and more. People were jammed together, some on cushions others on the hard concrete. The three ladies in front of us shared some tequila, cap by cap, brought in a vitamin bottle passed between then.

Bullfighting is a gory business and not for the faint of heart. The poor bull doesn’t have a chance. But it is traditional pomp and circumstance and part of a cultural harmony. After seeing three animals slaughtered, we’d had enough and left early as the crowd continued to yell “oh lay.”

Throughout our stay in SMA, I continued playing my favorite sport, tennis, at Weber’s Tennis Club (red clay courts). My game of choice was mixed doubles with a lovely lady from Hungary and Texas, along with two gentlemen, one from Montreal, the other from Ottawa. We all really liked each other and made sure we played 2-3 times every week. Playing at 6400 ft. above sea level with pressurized tennis balls surely added a new spin to the game, creating interesting challenges.

The world is small as we met people who live within a five mile radius of us in the heart of Manhattan. However, the great majority of visitors and expats are from Canada, Texas, Washington State, Oregon, California with sprinklings from all over the USA.

SMA is the kind of town where total strangers stop and talk on the streets as everyone is anxious to get to know others, especially if you’re a newcomer. One evening we were making our way to a restaurant when a couple (from Minnesota) started talking to us and we spent the next half hour getting to know each other, exchanging names and numbers so we’d be sure to stay in contact. Of course, this episode repeated itself several times during our stay.

In case you haven’t heard, SMA attracts many ladies from the States seeking beauty ala plastic surgery and such, at a third of the cost or less. There are a few fine surgeons (trained in the best USA hospitals) but do your research and get recommendations.

A not to be missed visit is to the historic Fabrica Aurora, an old cotton mill, on the outskirts of town turned into gallery and studio space, where home furnishings, jewelry and antiques are plentiful. There are multi shops and spaces to visit, along with two delightful cafes when you get hungry.

Day trips or overnights are plentiful. We spent a wonderful day in the City of Guanajuato (it means the mountain place of frogs), a charming European style City and the capital of the State. It is a multi-colored, twisting cobblestoned wonder with a subterranean through which to drive and where visits to the Diego Rivera Museum and the Museum of Mummies can be highly enlightening. It houses the prestigious University of Guanajuato, considered Mexico’s finest school for music and theater. A ride on the finicular to the very top (about 6600 ft.) is a must for 360 degree views of this beautiful and colorful City which, in 1988, was declared a World Heritage Zone by UNESCO.

San Miguel is a favorite with retirees on fixed incomes as it provides a wonderful lifestyle at approximately one-half or less the cost of living in the States. It’s not for everyone as walking and getting around can be difficult. Don’t forget the altitude and the uneven terrain. Many of the locals speak English which is a plus for those who know little to no Spanish. The bottom line, however, is that if one is active, a little on the rugged, adventurous side and loves a cultured, artistic environment….this is the place for you.

Here’s a quote I’ve heard repeated many times: “people go to Florida to die, but they come to San Miguel to live! Hasta luego amigos.